Apple tree branches at all levels often fail to open properly due to improper angles or lack of angle adjustment. This leads to unbalanced branching, an irregular tree structure, disordered branch distribution, poor air circulation, and reduced light penetration. As a result, the tree tends to focus on vegetative growth rather than fruit production, leading to inefficient development. However, when the tree matures, this overgrowth can actually improve fruit quality and yield. One effective technique to address this issue is "strong pulling," which helps control branch direction and promote balanced growth.
Now is another ideal time for branch pulling, as the branches are softer, easier to manipulate, heal faster, and are less likely to cause fruit drop. It’s important for growers to take advantage of this window.
1. **The Purpose of Branch Pulling**
Branch pulling in apple trees helps expand the canopy, speed up tree formation, improve air and light conditions, regulate nutrient flow and hormone balance, adjust tree vigor, encourage flowering, and make better use of space, ultimately achieving three-dimensional fruiting.
2. **Adjusting Branch Angles**
Based on the variety and desired tree shape, permanent main branches should generally be pulled to around 90 degrees, while temporary main branches and side branches should be pulled between 95 to 110 degrees. All branches on the main stem should be pulled to a natural, sagging position.
3. **Best Time for Branch Pulling**
Branch pulling should be done during the growing season. For large, strong perennial branches and their side branches, it's best to perform the task after flowering, from mid-May to late May. For one- to two-year-old branches and terminal fruiting shoots, the ideal time is mid-August through early autumn.
4. **Technique for Pulling Branches**
The method used is called "push, rub, press, and fix." That means: "Push" refers to repeatedly lifting the branch upward; "Rub" involves rubbing the branch up and down; "Press" means gradually bending the branch to the desired angle after softening it; "Fix" involves using plastic ties, ropes, or thin wires to secure the branch in place. For young shoots and lateral branches, an "F"-shaped angle is created by pushing and kneading. If a large branch is too stiff, saws can be made at the base—two or three cuts spaced 3 cm apart, removing about one-third of the branch thickness, then pressing it down and fixing it with wire for a full year.
5. **Important Notes When Pulling Branches**
First, avoid creating a bow-back shape, as this can lead to breakage. Second, combine branch pulling with bud pruning for better results. Third, do not pull the main branches directly—after pulling the main branch, also pull the lateral branches, ensuring that the main branch angle is more than 90 degrees, and the lateral branches have a wider angle than the main ones. This ensures proper balance and long-term tree health.
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