Bud grafting is an important grafting method for flowers and trees. Usually in the fall, the weather is fine in autumn, and the buds are not rotted due to rain or hot or humid. After the buds have survived, the temperature will turn cool, the sprouts will not sprout, and the winter will be safe. In addition, buds are used to save species, and the method is simple, easy to grasp, and highly efficient, so it is widely used in production.
In north China, flowers and trees suitable for budding in autumn are as follows: Peach and Prunus edulis are used as rootstocks; the rootstocks of Shiyanmei (White Jade Church) are: all kinds of Chinese rose and yellow thorn pieces. The budding time is after the beginning of autumn, that is, from mid-August to early September, budding is prone to budding prematurely, and is prone to freezing damage in winter; it is not easy to survive in late dormancy and close to dormancy. The following describes the budding process using the rootstock culture and bud grafting methods.
Rootstock cultivation
Rootstock should be cultivated in advance. There are two methods: One is seed propagation, which is sowing seeds after the autumn of the previous year. In the next spring, when the seedlings grow to a height of 20 cm, the soil is excavated and transplanted into a predetermined bud seeding area at a spacing of 25 cm and 80 cm. Its wider row spacing is for future budding operations. After transplanting, they were watered and shaded for two or three days to allow them to quickly resume their growth. After the strengthening of conservation, promptly do a good job loose soil, weeding, watering, fertilization, so that plants thrive. After the rainy season has reached more than 1 cm in diameter, budding can be carried out.
The second method is cutting propagation, which takes place in the late summer and early autumn of the previous year. Take the full-grown branches cut into 25 cm long, retain the upper part of the leaves, and focus on the 15 cm 15 cm line spacing in the open field. After living as a natural wintering. Before the late spring sprouts, its branching fork is cut short, and the soil is excavated, and transplanted into the predetermined buds and pods in accordance with the row spacing of the above-mentioned mountain peach seedlings.
Ten sisters' rootstock cultivation can also be cut into 25 cm long leaves in the fall of the previous year. They are lined up and down and tied in small bundles and buried in the ground. Do not lie flat while burying and tilt slightly and place the upper end of the shoots down. Because the auxin in the plant is concentrated on the top of the plant, the inversion of the branches can promote the healing of the wound on the rooting side of the future. It is taken out in the spring of the following year, and it is inserted directly in the place where the buds are to be planted. This method saves time compared with the former and can shorten the seedling period, but after the survival, it must strengthen the management of fertilizer and water to promote growth, and can be used as the stock for autumn.
The ten sister-in-law branches are long, but they can also be grafted onto the buds first in the fall, and then the branches can be cut into small pieces, bundled and buried before they can survive. However, the position of the buds in each segment should be taken into consideration when cutting the truncated segments, and it is more appropriate to use the middle or sub-lower ones. The purpose is to make the buds after cutting reach above the soil surface and close to the ground. The branches are buried in the spring and the cuts are cut out. At this time, the rootstocks take root and sprout buds. The two go hand in hand, making it easier and more convenient.
Prepare before budding
After the rainy season, budding preparations can begin. Remove the weeds from the field first, and cut all the rootstocks below 30 cm from the ground. Ten sisters' rootstocks are also stripped of stem spurs at the buds and removed obstacles for operation.
The shoots used for shoots should be selected to be full and robust in the year. The buds in the middle of each shoot are the most abundant and applicable. The three buds, such as the blue peach and the green leafy plum, are clustered together, that is, the buds are centered and the two flower buds are separated on both sides. Two buds should be removed when taking buds to avoid empty nutrient consumption.
For shoots that are used for budding, the leaves should first be cut off (the petiole should be retained) to prevent evaporation of moisture from the shoots. Then keep it in a safe place. You can immerse the lower end of the stick in a bucket or wrap it in a cool place with a damp cloth.
budding
There are many budding methods, such as budding, T-shaped buds, I-shaped buds, and tube buds. However, no matter what method is adopted, it is important to connect the forming layer of sprouting and rootstock. Here are two bud connection methods as an example to introduce the specific operation method:
1. Patch budding is a common budding method. With a bud of a suitable size, a knife is used. On the shoot, the bud is taken as the center. The upper, lower, left, and right skin layers are cut with a knife, and then the cut cortex is lifted off with a knife edge. In the same way, a piece of tetragonal cortex is removed from the selected bud site of the rootstock, and the bud is then attached to it. Note that the direction of the budding should be upward, and the surrounding edges should be tight, and the operation should be done quickly so that the buds do not dry. It is common for someone to remove the sprouts immediately after they are removed, and then take them out after the rootstock is made a gap. After the buds have been attached, they should be fastened with plastic straps, and the buds and attached petioles should be exposed when tied.
2. T-shaped bud connection is also a commonly used budding method, because the buds they take are like shields, so they are also called shield buds. When cutting buds, the branches can be lifted by hand, and the upper 2 cm of the buds are used to make a 20 to 30 angle bevel of the buds. Cut to 1 cm on the bud to stop, then cross-cut a knife here together with the xylem to take the buds off and take it as a shield.
The plan will be cut with a knife to mark the roots of the stock. The horizontal line is about 1 cm wide, the vertical line is about 3 cm long, and then the skin is opened with the tip of the knife along the vertical line. Remove the attached wood from the prepared shield buds and insert the buds from top to bottom with the palmella with the petiole tilted along the rootstock. Note that the upper edge of the bud after insertion should be in close contact with the cross cuts on the rootstock. Finally, it is tied with a plastic tape like the splicing method.
After management
One week after budding can be checked for survival. If the petioles attached to the buds touch off immediately, the color of the buds will remain green and lively. This is the sign for living, otherwise you can seize the time and re-apply.
After the buds have survived, the bundles can be removed before sprouting in late spring to prevent the growth of buds and rootstocks from being inhibited. After budding, the rootstock from the top of the bud can be cut off by 20cm to 30cm. When the bud is to be grown to a considerable height, it is attached to it as a pillar for windbreaks. The anvil that they produce can temporarily retain part of the rootstock to make nutrients, and its excessive part should be removed. Afterwards, when the buds grow vigorously, all anvil buds are cut off.
In the maintenance after survival, we should pay attention to watering, fertilizing, loosening soil, weeding, rowing and other measures to promote seedling growth. After a year of cultivation, the pots can be planted or planted in the spring of the second year.
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